Need-to-know basis: Sevilla.

Ok, let's get back to Sevilla information :) (For more basics, see here.)

A lot of people in Spain, and in Sevilla, speak English. But they will appreciate it so much if you at least try a little Spanish from time to time. Even if you know Spanish already, there are some words/phrases that are used in Spain that are different from other Spanish-speaking areas. Here are some things to know:
- "Hola." Obviously. If you've never heard a single Spanish word before, this means "hello." You will also hear "Buenos días/buenas tardes/buenas noches" (good morning/afternoon/night) or, just simply "buenas."
-"Gracias." Thank you. Or, as the Spaniards say it, "grathiaaah."
- "Adios," or "goodbye." Again, with the Spanish accent, they pretty much drop the "s" so they say it more like "adioooo." You may also hear "Hasta luego," or simply "hasta" (see you later).
- "¿Qué tal?" which means "how are you?" They teach you in Spanish class that this means "what's up?" to which you would think you should respond "nada" or "nothing" like we would in English. Whatever the actual translation is, the response is always "bien" (good). Well, unless you're not bien. But no one really wants to hear that. You may also hear "¿Cómo estás?" or "¿Qué hay?" Same response all the way around.
- "Por favor" and "de nada" (please and thank you, respectively).
- "Dónde está....." which means "Where is....." The most important one of course is "¿Dónde está el servicio?" (Where's the bathroom?). You can ask for the "baño," but Spaniards don't really use that word. Signs will either point to "servicios" or "aseos," never "baños." Women's bathrooms will either have "mujeres" or "doñas" on it. Men's usually will have "cabelleros" or "hombres." Just say "SERVICIOS?!" if you are in desperate need and can't remember the whole sentence.
- "Vale." You will hear this word more than anything. It means "OK." They say this at least once per sentence, I'm pretty sure. If someone asks you a question, you can just respond with "vale." Well, first you should make sure they aren't asking you to do something crazy. Just don't say "OK." That makes it obvious you are American.
- "¿Cuánto es?" or "¿Cuánto vale?" means "How much is it?" You are always taught in Spanish class to ask "Cuánto cuesta," or literally, "How much does it cost?" You will never hear a Spaniard say that. "Cuánto vale" can be used for things that are more valuable or precious. If you are asking how much a rosary is in a convent, for example, use "cuanto vale" to show respect for the item. But "cuanto es" will get the point accross!
- "Cerveza."

Now, here are some do's and don'ts for Sevilla.
DO carry a map with you. At all times. But,
DON'T carry it around in plain sight and rely on it too much. Nothing points out "tourist" like walking around with your nose in a map or guide book. Also,
DO know how to read a map. I'm not sure why this is so difficult for most people.
DO be prepared to do a lot of walking. I mean a lot. On that note,
DO bring super-comfy walking shoes. This will probably make it obvious that you are a tourist, as Spaniards don't wear tennis shoes or Tevas, etc. But you don't want to be in agony from all the walking. Sometimes comfort really is more important than being fashionable.
DO expect to do a lot of walking. I know I already said that. I want you to understand.
DON'T expect dog owners to pick up after their dogs. So,
DO expect there to be poop everywhere. Watch your step.
DON'T take your eyes off the road. Besides the poop everywhere, the cobblestone streets are uneven and easy to trip on. Also,
DON'T listen to music while walking. The streets are very narrow. You need to be able to hear if a car is coming (or a bike) or you will get run over. If you have headphones in, you won't know what's coming behind you.
DON'T expect a stranger to volunteer to help you out if you are lost. They think they will be insulting you if they come up to you and say, "do you need help?" So:
DON'T be afraid to ask for directions/help. They have probably noticed you are struggling and look lost. They will be more than willing to help and are super friendly if you just say "Perdona, ¿dónde está....?" (excuse me, where is....?).
DO try tapas. Try a lot of them. Also,
DO try jamón iberico. Even if it looks gross, just try one little taste. You cannot miss the country's most iconic food (see here for more).
DO see a flamenco show. It's amazing. In my opinion, anyway.
DO see the main sights: the Cathedral, Alcázar, Museo de Bellas Artes and Plaza de España. (There are plenty more to see!)
DON'T eat while walking around. Just don't do it. If you must eat out in public, at least sit on a bench or something. The Spaniards will scoff at you if you are eating while walking in public.
DON'T expect spectacular service from waiters, salespeople, etc. They don't get tipped, so they don't feel the need to impress you. On that same note,
DON'T tip. Unless it was spectacular service. I mean, really outstanding. Also,
DON'T let someone convince you it is "normal" to tip. Tell them you know they are lying, take your money and run. Not really, but...kind of. (I have a terrible history with taxis. See my Madrid story.)
DON'T pick things up and touch everything in stores. Clothes, fine. Everything else, just look. If you really want it you can pick it up. But you'll usually get some nasty glares or comments if you are too touchy.
DON'T get drunk and rowdy in public. Or in private, but mostly in public. It's fine to drink. And drink a substantial amount. But do so slooowwwly, over the entire night. While hanging out with friends. Not because you want to get wasted and hit on Spaniards. Or Americans. Or anyone.
DON'T talk about bullfighting or about either Sevillan fútbol team (Betis or Sevilla). You will inevitably insult someone who is on the other side of the issue.
DON'T expect to blend in. Every local will know you are a tourist. No question.
DON'T let the gypsies hand you their bundle of herbs or spices or tree branches or whatever they are. They are trying to get money out of you. Don't talk to them, just keep walking. Avoid them at all costs. (Or else it will cost you. baahahaha).
DO buy nun goodies.
DON'T miss the nun goodies.
DON'T expect huge, super-fancy hotels. These buildings are old. Like, older-than-the-USA old. They don't have giant rooms or super updated bathrooms. But they are nice and well-kept (for the most part). Just don't complain if its not 3000 square feet. You don't need that much room, you should be spending your time out in Sevilla anyway. Also,
DON'T expect HBO and ABC and English-speaking television. In Franco's time (we'll have a history lesson later. Maybe.), English TV/movies were not allowed. Everything was dubbed. While Franco's no longer around making everybody miserable, it is pretty impossible to find any English-language TV shows. And there are only one or two theaters which play "original-format" films. Again, you should be out exploring the city anyway, and not watching TV. So don't complain if you can't watch your favorite shows because they are in Spanish.
DON'T eat the oranges off of the trees lining the streets. They weren't planted for food, they were planted so they'd look pretty and smell nice.
DO try all kinds of food. Even if it looks weird or you aren't really sure what it is. Even if it involved sea snails or fried squid eggs. (But NOT if it includes mayonnaise soup.)
DON'T expect gigantic eggs-bacon-and-hashbrown breakfasts. Have some toast and coffee and fruit and you'll be fine until lunch. Where you should expect a giant meal.
DON'T eat lunch before 2pm or dinner before 7pm.
DON'T expect to get any really great beer. You will have one option most of the time. Cruzcampo. And it's not real great. You might be able to get some other variations in a few places, but don't expect it. Wine, on the other hand, you'll have a million options.
DO expect to hear some "piropos" (cat-calls) from Spanish men on the streets.
DON'T respond-you will only make it worse. Just keep walking. They are harmless and only want to get a reaction.
DON'T expect air conditioning or central heat. I guess maybe some nice hotels have it. Not many other places though.
DON'T be afraid to take photos. I know this may contradict everything I've said about trying not to seem touristy. But you will want to have photos of everything. Just take them. BUT,
DO respect places of worship, other people, etc. when taking photos. Turn the flash off when its not completely necessary, don't take pictures of strangers without asking them, don't think you deserve to be the front of the line or have the best view just because you are taking a picture. These things are common sense, people. If you are going to be a tourist, then:
DO be a considerate tourist, one who gives your home country a good name.
DON'T expect to be able to buy anything during the siesta (about 2-5pm every day) or on Sundays. Nothing will be open.
DO take advantage of the siesta. Nothing like the city closing down to prompt you to take a nice nap.
DO go to Triana to see all the ceramics. There are so many stores with so many beautiful things.
DON'T think someone is going to rob or rape or kidnap you. Sevilla is pretty safe. As long as you are not dumb. But, on that note:
DON'T completely trust strangers. If a bunch of people come up and try to talk to you, keep a close eye on your stuff. I don't see this happening in Sevilla, but you never know. I had a friend who almost got robbed by a 3-person team in Barcelona because they were all distracting her in different ways (including discretely spraying liquid makeup all over her, offering to help clean up, asking for directions, etc.). She's smart so she didn't get robbed. But many people are way too distracted to notice what's happening. Also,
DON'T take your eyes off your stuff when you are in a crowded bar. Don't take with you more than you need, and keep it close to your body. Don't set your purse on a table, etc. If you do that, you deserve to get robbed. That's just foolish. Finally,
DON'T walk around all by yourself late at night. I'm not gonna lie, I did this a few times and was just fine. But its pretty stupid. Just stick with your group or take a taxi (they are easy to hail and pretty cheap within the city center).
DON'T try to bring back something prohibited to the USA. Including plants, fruits, etc. Go here to see what is allowed and not (more to come on this later).
DON'T expect super-clean public bathrooms. Well, actually, don't expect public bathrooms at all, really. If you are out walking around and need the toilet, find a Corte Ingles supercenter and find their bathroom. Or go into a local bar, order a cerveza and use the toilet. But they are usually pretty gross. There is very rarely toilet paper and often no toilet seat. Bring kleenex with you (you can buy it for cheap at the chino stores) and get used to hovering over the toilet...
DO pack to take with you:
-comfortable walking shoes. I know I mentioned this a million times. My poor feet hated me for not taking more comfortable shoes.
-If you are going in summer, take very light, breathable clothing. It's freaking HOT.
-a good camera. So many beautiful things to take pictures of!
-sunglasses. With all the walking you'll be doing outside, you'll want some.
-if you will be there for a long time, bring some comfort foods that you can't live without. Some people freak out when they find that peanut butter is not available or is super expensive overseas. If you can't live without it, bring some with you.
-a nice going-out outfit. Spaniards like to dress up to go out. If you are trying to get into a club, you will not make it in in jeans and sneakers. Bring a cute dress and heels (or flats...) if you're a girl and some slacks and dress shoes if you're a guy.
DON'T bother bringing:
-too much! Pack light. I am terrible at this, but just know that you will most likely buy a lot of souvenirs. So you want room to bring them back. My recommendation is to pack some toiletries and snacks that you will use up while you are there. Then, you will have the room that was taken up by those things to fit souvenirs. Plus you won't have to spend travel money on those things.
-a computer, if you are taking a shorter trip. You don't want to have to worry about losing it, breaking it, lugging it around, getting it stolen, etc. But if you are studying or will be there for a longer period of time, it will be nice to have.

The best and the brightest of Sevilla

Sevilla is a fantastic city with a rich history. Granted, I don't really know much about its history...but I know it has a great one. Because of this, there is a lot to see and do in the city. Sadly, in the nearly four months I was there, I missed a lot. Mostly because I was too scared to go out in the heat when I first was there and by the time it cooled down I was too busy. Excuses, excuses-I'll just have to go back.

We'll start with the most typical TOURIST-Y SIGHTS:
The Cathedral. This is an amazingly immense, beautiful, ornate, historical cathedral. I mean, its huge-the third largest cathedral in the WORLD. Sevilla (Spain, in general) has a long history with the Muslim people (the Moors-who occupied the Iberian peninsula for a very long time [800 years, according to Wikipedia]) and this cathedral was built on the site of a Mosque. The bell-tower (the Giralda-Sevilla's most famous and visible symbol) was once a minaret of the mosque. Christopher Columbus is (supposedly) buried inside the Cathedral and you can see his resting place when you go inside. The interior of the cathedral is almost as impressive as its Gothic facade. The ornate-ness of the cathedrals in Spain is just awe-inspiring, and this tops a lot of them. Climb up the Giralda and get a great view of the city/a close-up view of the exterior of the building.



Right across from the cathedral, also in Plaza del Triunfo, is the Alcázar. This is my favorite sight in Sevilla. I think it rivals the Alhambra in Granada, but some people laugh at that idea. It was originally a Royal Palace for the Moors and parts are still used by the Spanish royal family. Muslim architecture/artwork is incredible. The amazing detail that covers the walls and ceilings is just astonishing. Then you go outside and see the garden, and think maybe you could stay inside there forever. You could easily spend a few hours looking around and still not see everything, but definitely allow a good amount of time here. I sadly only went once, but could have easily gone again and again. Make sure you don't miss it.



Besides the "main" cathedral in Sevilla, you should wander into others you pass by. They are all just incredible and ornate and beautiful. As long as the doors are open, you should be able to peek in and look around. Just be polite and considerate, since these are all real live cathedrals where people go to pray and worship.
Also don't miss the bullfighting ring. I did miss it :( I'm not sure how I made it almost four months without going there. Now, I can't support going to see a bullfight. But if you are cold and heartless and don't mind watching animals be tortured and murdered, go for it. Just kidding, kind of. I think it is something that would be worthwhile seeing, since you are in the heart of bullfighting country. But just understand that it is NOT pretty. If you don't want to watch the actual massacre, you can go to the ring when there isn't a fight and tour the grounds, see the museum, etc. I hear it's pretty cool to explore, and definitely a big part of Spanish/Sevillan culture. Sevillanas are on both sides of the bullfighting issue. You'll find some who think it is a beautiful art form, and others who find it cruel and ugly. Find out for yourself if you wish, just don't talk too loudly about your opinions as you'll undoubtedly piss someone off, whichever side you end up on.
The Plaza de España is pretty close to some of the other main sights, and is just beautiful. It was built for the world fair in 1929 and represents each of the areas and many of the main cities in Spain. It is a beautiful building, with a little lake area in the middle which you can go boating in. Each "area" of Spain is represented by a lot of beautiful tile work and benches. You can wander around and admire the artwork, then head to the Plaza de America or Parque María Luisa, both of which are right next to the Plaza. Plaza de America is beautiful and has lots of amazing flowers and landscaping, as well as "pigeon park." Not for those who have a fear of birds. Sevilla's biggest park, that of María Luisa, is breathtaking. It is huge and green and there are water features and benches and people doing Tai Chi and there are birds and fish and its just lovely and peaceful. You forget you are right in the middle of the city and that the park is surrounded by Sevilla's busiest streets.

Parque María Luisa

Plaza Nueva is a square in the middle of the city where you will find the city hall and government buildings. It is a beautiful square where a lot of locals hang out in the evenings, and it is also right at the end of the main shopping streets.
Museo de Bellas Artes is Sevilla's art museum. It has some amazing collections an works by Goya, Velazquez and a lot of other names I don't recognize but still admire. If you are in town on a Sunday, make this the day you go see the museum. After seeing all the beautiful artwork by world-renown artists, you can wander around the local art market right outside the museum doors. I made many trips to the market and bought lots of fun things. The art is amazing (some is weird of course) and it is such a fun place to go on a sunny Sunday.
You can't go to Sevilla without seeing the river running through the city, Río Guadalquivir (don't try pronouncing it), and the Torre del Oro (Golden Tower) on the side of the river. The river is not the most beautiful nor pristine you will ever see, but it is quite lovely and peaceful. It is always full of people (locals and tourists alike) paddleboating or kayaking/rowing, and in the summer swimming. The Torre is where everyone goes to party at night. I feel bad for the poor street cleaners who have to clean up the mess after every "botellón." It's not pretty. But if you go during the day, it is nice and clean and you can sit on the boardwalk area, bike, rollerblade, sit at a restaurant or cafe, etc.


Barrio Santa Cruz is the old Jewish quarter in Sevilla. The streets are tiny (even tinier than in the rest of the city) and wind all over the place. Its impossible not to get lost. But its really cute and there are lots of nice little shops. I didn't actually see that much of this neighborhood, but what I did saw I loved. Definitely worth a visit.
The old tobacco factory has quite a history (think Carmen) and now houses the Universidad de Sevilla. You can go wander through the university and see statues and photos of what it used to be, plus run into plenty of students.




Now, these are all things (minus the Bullfighting Ring) that I saw/visited. And they are all amazing. But there are plenty more to see if you have time/the interest. But I can't really say much about them because I didn't see them :( Even 3+ months isn't enough to see all the sights in Sevilla!

Now, let's move on to the SPANISH-Y THINGS everyone should do while in Spain/Sevilla:

Well, we've already discussed bullfighting. I'll let you make up your own mind about that. Just be warned. I know some people who left in tears after 10 minutes because it was so bloody. But I also know others who loved it and appreciated the cultural side of it, and the art and talent of the matadors (and the super-tight clothes that the matadors wear...).

This is as close as I got to bullfighting-seeing matadors-in-training.

FLAMENCO. If you haven't been exposed to much flamenco before, or if you just think of fans and fancy dresses when you hear the word, you must experience it. It is so much more than the dresses. Which are amazing enough in and of themselves. Flamenco is typically thought of as something started by the gypsies. There are still gypsies alive and well in Spain, dancing and trying to sell you bunches of herbs (real herbs, not the "herbs" you are probably thinking someone would try to sell on the street). But flamenco has moved beyond the gypsies. Now, Sevilla has its own dance/music style, the "Sevillanas." Honestly, I can't tell you the difference. What I can tell you is that every single Sevillana, from birth, can dance the sevillanas/flamenco. This is much more difficult than it sounds, as evidenced by 10 year old students trying to teach it to Sofie and I one time. First of, you have to know how to clap. Not just smash your hands together. It's a special kind of clapping. Then there's the guitarist, the singers, the lyrics, the drum-box thing, the dancing, the dresses...It's amazing. You can hear some middle-eastern influence in the songs. It is not a gentle, soft dance. It is passionate, dramatic, full of strong emotion. Its just astonishing. You can see flamenco just about anywhere in Sevilla. The best is of course if you can see a non-touristy show. Although those are good too. But more likely than not, if you spend much time in bars or restaurants, or just hang out anywhere where the locals do, you'll get a little taste of some impromptu flamenco. Or you can go find a show somewhere and get the whole experience. Or watch the movie "Flamenco, Flamenco" for some of the best of the best flamenco out there. Whatever you do, see it. Not everyone likes it, but you have to experience it.


You can't go to Spain without trying tapas. The tradition of tapas started when bartenders would place a thin slice of jamón over the top (tapa) of a beer to stop sand/flies/whatever from getting into the drink. (Or so claims our tour guide in Madrid. It seems plausible enough). If you go to Granada, you'll get the real tapas experience-order a drink, and get served a random assortment of the small delicacies (for free). But in most other parts of the country, the tradition has evolved. Now you order tapas from a menu and can get pretty much anything, though they are still small portions and super cheap. Tapas range from anything to simple bread and jamón and cheese, to different kinds of potatoes, gazpacho, seafood, small portions of meat or salads, etc. More to come on the food of Sevilla later. But at some point in your stay in Sevilla, you must go to a bar, order a cerveza (Cruzcampo being the standard in this area) and a couple different kinds of tapas (patatas bravas, jamón and tortilla española being my top recommendations).



Sevillanas live in the streets. They weather of the area is so nice that people rarely host get-togethers in their homes. Instead, everyone will meet at a bar or a plaza or just on the street outside their house to chat and gossip and smoke and people-watch. So my best recommendation is to do the same. Just go find a bar to sit at and drink a beer or three, order some tapas, and watch people. Wander around the streets during the day to see all kinds of people doing all kinds of things, and in the evening to see the city come to life. You will find plenty of your own sights and things to look at and explore when you do this. Go off the beaten track, you will be so glad you did.