La comida

I should be doing homework or cleaning or cooking or something. But I just saw some of the new Sevilla students through facebook and heard stories and now I'm sad and reminiscing. So instead, I'm blogging. Plenty of time later for homework....


I love to eat. If you couldn't tell this from my previous blog posts (of which I think about 90% mention food), you will now know. I was nervous going to Spain, because I had heard not-so-great things about the food from friends who had studied there before. But apparently I picked the right area to travel to, because the food was much better than I had been led to believe it would be. My friend Annie studied in Segovia (closer to Madrid-in the middle of the country) and she says that literally 90% of the meals she was served consisted of pork. Not that I have anything against pork, but I like a little variety. There is plenty of pork eaten in Sevilla too, as evidenced by the jamón legs hanging in stores and in kitchens. But fortunately my host mom preferred to cook other things.

Here are some things that you should definitely eat while in Sevilla/Spain:
-Tortilla española. Get any thought of flat, boring, flour Mexican tortillas out of your brain. This is a dish made of eggs, potatoes and onions. I don't like onions. I don't really like eggs. But I love tortilla española.


-Patatas bravas. This is a traditional tapas dish and is made of fried potato wedges with a sauce on it that is a bit tomato-y and spicy and I don't know what else. But its delicious.

-Jamón. I don't actually really like it all that much. But you have to try it as the country is known for it. If you just can't handle eating it on its own, get a jamón bocadillo (sandwich) as its quite good in that form.

-Tostada. Just plain ole toast. Go to a bar/cafe and order tostada for breakfast. You can get it with butter (mantequilla), jelly (mermelada), tomato, olive oil (aceite), jamón, etc. I don't know what it is, but the bread is so good and it just makes a perfect breakfast.

-CHURROS. Again, these are not Mexican churros. They are deep-fried goodness. You can get it with chocolate (which you should, the chocolate is to die for), but honestly I preferred to eat them just with sugar sprinkled on them. My mouth is watering just thinking about it.


-Boquerones. Fried little fishies. Like sardines or anchovies or something. You just eat the whole thing, bones and all if they are the small ones. Can hardly tell there are bones. If they are larger, you might want to avoid the bones as they are kind of unpleasant. I was pretty scared to eat these at first, but because my friend Sofie swore they were the best thing ever, I tried them. And love them.

-Paella. Sevilla isn't number one for paella. But you still must try it. Rice, seafood, meat, yum. Just whatever you do, don't go to one of the places that has a sign outside the door showing all the kinds of pre-made paella junk they have. Go to a place that serves it "casera" style (home-made). Get a tapa portion if you're nervous, although sometimes that means its kind of old and not as fresh. Just try it.

-Gazpacho. Cold tomato/cucumber/veggie soup. Sounds gross, but its quite refreshing on a hot day. You can eat it just plain, but my host mom served it with diced cucumber and hard-boiled egg, which made it even better. You can also try salmorejo, which is just a thicker, smoother version. I never actually tried that but heard it was good.
-Pork. It is so good there. Try "solomillo" which is a cut of the pork (don't ask which cut, I have no idea)-you can get it with whisky sauce which is really good. "Pluma" is amazing too. It's so tender and delicious. Maybe a little fatty, but that's what makes it so good.
-Bacalao. Cod. I don't like it. But it's everywhere and worth a try I think. Make up your mind for yourself. The fried version isn't half bad. But if you are served a whole cod with onions and tomatoes, that was cooked in the microwave by your host mom....well, that's not my favorite.
-Patatas fritas con huevo-French fries with an egg. They love their eggs in Spain. It sounds weird, but is oddly good.
-Croquetas. Deep-fried goodness. Its like a little ball of mush that is deep-fried. You can get spinach ones, ham ones, cheese ones...try one of each.
-Cheese. Manchego cheese is delish.
-Pastries. Try any kind that strikes your fancy. And eat them often.
-Ice cream. You can get fig, chocolate, nutella and everything in between.

-Arroz con leche. Basically rice pudding. Cinnamonny and sweet and so good.
-Soup. I don't know if its any good in the restaurants. But if its anything like my host mom's, you will never want to eat anything else in your life. Made with all kinds of meat (don't ask whats in it, just eat it), they make the soup and then take the meat out to eat later. My soups would usually have some sort of beans (garbanzo, giant other kinds, lentils, whatever) and veggies and yummy meaty broth. I want some right now. (The meat that it is cooked with on the other hand...I'll pass. Although you really should try it at least once, it's not nearly as bad as it looks.)
-Espinacas con garbanzos-garbanzo beans with spinach. Eat it with bread or just plain. Pretty delish and a traditional Sevillan dish.
-Oranges. Eat all the oranges you can. Don't stop eating them. (As long as you don't try the ones growing on the street-I hear those will make you sick...).





-Convent sweets. Go into every convent you can find and get dulces ("sweets"). Especially magdalenas-sweet muffiny things. Don't skip the magdalenas. But also try other things, whatever looks good.






These were some of my favorite things. Try them all, and try them often. But really, just go into pretty much any eating establishment and try whatever they've got. I pretty much guarantee it will be amazing.


Oh but we aren't done yet. Here are some things to drink.


-Cruzcampo. Sevilla's beer. Its actually not that great, but you've got to try it. Each area of Spain has their own beer. Cruzcampo is pretty much all you can get in Sevilla, but you can find other things here and there. Make sure its really cold. You can order a "caña" (small glass), botella or jarra-giant glass. Or you can go buy a 40 at a grocery store.



-Manzanilla-white wine from Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Our friend Gerardo's hometown is known for this wine and he had us try some. It was delicious. It's possible I just liked it because I had already had a lot to drink. But either way, I'd drink it again.


-Rioja-red wine. There are a lot of versions of Rioja, but they are all supposedly pretty good. Not a big red wine fan, but some of it really is good.

-Tinto de verano. You can get this at any bar and it is red wine mixed with fanta. Literally. You can get it with "casera" which is just sparkling water, or with lemon or orange fanta. It sounds gross. But is quite delicious and refreshing. And doesn't even taste very wine-y.
-Agua de Sevilla-I don't really know what it is, but is a giant "jarra" (pitcher) of a mix of all kinds of things. With whipped cream on top.
-Fresh-squeezed orange juice. See above note about oranges. This stuff is to die for. A lot of bar/cafes (they are usually one in the same) have orange-squeezer things. And they will serve you up a fresh glass of orange juice with a packet of sugar, just in case you like it sweetened a little.
-If nothing listed above strikes your fancy, you can always order a Coca-Cola or a "vaso de agua" (glass of water). We aren't in a third-world country here. Its okay to drink the water. If you just ask for "agua" you will get charged for a bottle of water. If you ask for a "vaso de agua" they will bring you a nice cold glass of tap water, which tastes just fine.

Now that you know what to eat, let's talk about where.
For TAPAS:
-Eslava. Super busy but oh so good.
-Los Coloniales. There are a couple of them in Sevilla and they have some amazing stuff on the menu. Think roquefort cheese with blackberry sauce. Or "calamari del jardín," tempura-d peppers, onions, etc. that look like calamari.
-Los Claveles. My friends went here once and made quick friends with the owner, Santiago (I think, I only met him once). From then on, every time we would walk by he would call out their names and wave. Adorable. Oh yeah, they also have good food. Try the cheese with "cabello de ángel" (angel hair), or a sweet sauce made by the nuns consisting of some sort of squash. Weird, but good.


-El Rinconcillo-the oldest bar in Sevilla. We're talking like 400 years here. You've got to go try it.



-Levies-bright and fun and a little bit touristy looking, but with lots of locals also, its got a good menu.


Bars are always packed in the evening. You may have to eat standing at the bar or outside or at the tall tables they have around. Don't be afraid to just push your way in and grab the first spot you can find. The waiters won't waste their time talking about specials and how your day was. They'll ask what you want and if you aren't ready, they'll come back later. But don't be put off by that. Just figure out what you want and ask for it.

For a full meal:
Well, I pretty much only ate meals at home. So if Angeles Navarro Garcia invites you to her house for lunch, DO NOT PASS IT UP.

Otherwise, here are some of the places we ate:
-ConTenedor. So. good. We had tea here a few times but did go in for dinner our last night in Sevilla. And then wondered why we hadn't eaten there before. It is so amazing and the menu changes quite often and the staff is like a little family. Delish.

-Nomada-for pizza. And amazing desserts.
-Restaurants at the Feria food market. Get the freshest fish around. Try boquerones here.

That's pretty much it as far as "meals" go. But usually we would just go order enough tapas to make a meal. So, again, go into any bar you stumble across and order a few (or 10) plates of tapas. That way you get to try lots of little different things for cheap and figure out what you like.

Drinking
I didn't go "out" nearly as much as the rest of the group. So I'm sure they have better recommendations. But I think most of the bars in Sevilla are pretty legit. Just wander in (or push your way in), order a cerveza and have fun. Just expect it to be smoky and crowded. But that's why its fun, right?!
Bars:
As stated above, Rinconcillo and Los Claveles are both great. So is:
-Anima-for some "vino caliente" or hot wine. So good. I can't even explain what it is, and it isn't anything Spanish at all (the owner is Austrian), but is amazing.
-Indie bar on Calle Betis (across the river) for some chupitos (shots) and fun music.
Discotecas
Well...I never went to one. Tried to a couple times. Ended up either getting lost, getting there to late, or changing our minds. But I kept hearing people talking about "Buddah." By Plaza de Armas mall/bus station. Sounded pretty cool, everyone seemed to have fun there. If you are a guy, do not try getting in if you are wearing jeans and sneakers. You've got to step it up a little. And girls, put on a cute dress or a nice top and heels and you'll be fine.

Tea.
-Douchka. Don't ever go anywhere else. Order the Boolywood tea. Eat the sugar cubes plain. Enjoy the little pastry goody that they serve with it. Stay for hours. Go back day after day. Love.

-Also, order "te con leche" at a bar. You might get tea with a little pitcher of steamed milk to pour in as you wish. OR you might get a glass of steamed milk with a tea bag in it. Either way, its good.

Sweets
CHURROS
-Go to the place on Calle Cano y Cueto. We walked by this every day on our way to the university. And every once in a while got a package of churros. Actually we only did this twice. But they are the best churros ever. Its a tiny little place, and all they do is sell churros and chips. It's sandwiched in between two big restaurants and is easy to miss behind all the umbrellas and tables. But find it. Get the little churros, not the big ones. Otherwise, churros just about anywhere are pretty good. Sprinkle some sugar on them and enjoy.

PASTRIES
-Calle Santa Maria la Blanca has the best pastry shop ever. Its really close to the churro place. Get them both in one day if you're feeling the need for sweets. It's called like Doncella's or something, from what I can read off of the photo I took of one of the sweets we got there. Its usually crowded with people getting their bread for the week. But squeeze in and get a pastry. You'll be glad you did.


CONVENT GOODIES
-Convento de Madre de Dios. Get the magdalenas. Get 5 bags of them. Eat them all in one sitting. Preferably with a cup of coffee or tea. These things are so good, you just can't miss them. They are sweet muffin/cupcake things that are so plain and simple yet so amazingly delicious. They come in a bag of 10 or 12 for 4 euros, and if you're lucky you'll get them when they are warm. Pretty much all the convents sell magdalenas. But I tried three different ones, and this is just the best. Also good are the "bocaditos de almendras" and the something-"arabes." But I guarantee you won't try anything you don't like.


ICE CREAM
-Rayas. They have a million flavors. And they are all amazing.

-There is also a place in the Feria market that is "organic" and is possibly the best ice cream in the world. So fresh and flavorful and just amazing.

STREET GOODIES
-Go to any little stall on the street (they are all painted green and sell magazines, newspapers, souvenirs, goodies...) and get a 1 euro bag of gummies. Avoid the banana-flavored ones.

-Also go to a street vendor and try some roasted chestnuts. You have to peel them apart to eat them, but they are so good. They are giant, so don't get too many!



Oh what I would do for some Spanish food right now. I know I'm leaving out a lot. But this is the best of the best from my experience. So enjoy! I will add more to this as I think of things!

The best and the brightest of Sevilla

Sevilla is a fantastic city with a rich history. Granted, I don't really know much about its history...but I know it has a great one. Because of this, there is a lot to see and do in the city. Sadly, in the nearly four months I was there, I missed a lot. Mostly because I was too scared to go out in the heat when I first was there and by the time it cooled down I was too busy. Excuses, excuses-I'll just have to go back.

We'll start with the most typical TOURIST-Y SIGHTS:
The Cathedral. This is an amazingly immense, beautiful, ornate, historical cathedral. I mean, its huge-the third largest cathedral in the WORLD. Sevilla (Spain, in general) has a long history with the Muslim people (the Moors-who occupied the Iberian peninsula for a very long time [800 years, according to Wikipedia]) and this cathedral was built on the site of a Mosque. The bell-tower (the Giralda-Sevilla's most famous and visible symbol) was once a minaret of the mosque. Christopher Columbus is (supposedly) buried inside the Cathedral and you can see his resting place when you go inside. The interior of the cathedral is almost as impressive as its Gothic facade. The ornate-ness of the cathedrals in Spain is just awe-inspiring, and this tops a lot of them. Climb up the Giralda and get a great view of the city/a close-up view of the exterior of the building.



Right across from the cathedral, also in Plaza del Triunfo, is the Alcázar. This is my favorite sight in Sevilla. I think it rivals the Alhambra in Granada, but some people laugh at that idea. It was originally a Royal Palace for the Moors and parts are still used by the Spanish royal family. Muslim architecture/artwork is incredible. The amazing detail that covers the walls and ceilings is just astonishing. Then you go outside and see the garden, and think maybe you could stay inside there forever. You could easily spend a few hours looking around and still not see everything, but definitely allow a good amount of time here. I sadly only went once, but could have easily gone again and again. Make sure you don't miss it.



Besides the "main" cathedral in Sevilla, you should wander into others you pass by. They are all just incredible and ornate and beautiful. As long as the doors are open, you should be able to peek in and look around. Just be polite and considerate, since these are all real live cathedrals where people go to pray and worship.
Also don't miss the bullfighting ring. I did miss it :( I'm not sure how I made it almost four months without going there. Now, I can't support going to see a bullfight. But if you are cold and heartless and don't mind watching animals be tortured and murdered, go for it. Just kidding, kind of. I think it is something that would be worthwhile seeing, since you are in the heart of bullfighting country. But just understand that it is NOT pretty. If you don't want to watch the actual massacre, you can go to the ring when there isn't a fight and tour the grounds, see the museum, etc. I hear it's pretty cool to explore, and definitely a big part of Spanish/Sevillan culture. Sevillanas are on both sides of the bullfighting issue. You'll find some who think it is a beautiful art form, and others who find it cruel and ugly. Find out for yourself if you wish, just don't talk too loudly about your opinions as you'll undoubtedly piss someone off, whichever side you end up on.
The Plaza de España is pretty close to some of the other main sights, and is just beautiful. It was built for the world fair in 1929 and represents each of the areas and many of the main cities in Spain. It is a beautiful building, with a little lake area in the middle which you can go boating in. Each "area" of Spain is represented by a lot of beautiful tile work and benches. You can wander around and admire the artwork, then head to the Plaza de America or Parque María Luisa, both of which are right next to the Plaza. Plaza de America is beautiful and has lots of amazing flowers and landscaping, as well as "pigeon park." Not for those who have a fear of birds. Sevilla's biggest park, that of María Luisa, is breathtaking. It is huge and green and there are water features and benches and people doing Tai Chi and there are birds and fish and its just lovely and peaceful. You forget you are right in the middle of the city and that the park is surrounded by Sevilla's busiest streets.

Parque María Luisa

Plaza Nueva is a square in the middle of the city where you will find the city hall and government buildings. It is a beautiful square where a lot of locals hang out in the evenings, and it is also right at the end of the main shopping streets.
Museo de Bellas Artes is Sevilla's art museum. It has some amazing collections an works by Goya, Velazquez and a lot of other names I don't recognize but still admire. If you are in town on a Sunday, make this the day you go see the museum. After seeing all the beautiful artwork by world-renown artists, you can wander around the local art market right outside the museum doors. I made many trips to the market and bought lots of fun things. The art is amazing (some is weird of course) and it is such a fun place to go on a sunny Sunday.
You can't go to Sevilla without seeing the river running through the city, Río Guadalquivir (don't try pronouncing it), and the Torre del Oro (Golden Tower) on the side of the river. The river is not the most beautiful nor pristine you will ever see, but it is quite lovely and peaceful. It is always full of people (locals and tourists alike) paddleboating or kayaking/rowing, and in the summer swimming. The Torre is where everyone goes to party at night. I feel bad for the poor street cleaners who have to clean up the mess after every "botellón." It's not pretty. But if you go during the day, it is nice and clean and you can sit on the boardwalk area, bike, rollerblade, sit at a restaurant or cafe, etc.


Barrio Santa Cruz is the old Jewish quarter in Sevilla. The streets are tiny (even tinier than in the rest of the city) and wind all over the place. Its impossible not to get lost. But its really cute and there are lots of nice little shops. I didn't actually see that much of this neighborhood, but what I did saw I loved. Definitely worth a visit.
The old tobacco factory has quite a history (think Carmen) and now houses the Universidad de Sevilla. You can go wander through the university and see statues and photos of what it used to be, plus run into plenty of students.




Now, these are all things (minus the Bullfighting Ring) that I saw/visited. And they are all amazing. But there are plenty more to see if you have time/the interest. But I can't really say much about them because I didn't see them :( Even 3+ months isn't enough to see all the sights in Sevilla!

Now, let's move on to the SPANISH-Y THINGS everyone should do while in Spain/Sevilla:

Well, we've already discussed bullfighting. I'll let you make up your own mind about that. Just be warned. I know some people who left in tears after 10 minutes because it was so bloody. But I also know others who loved it and appreciated the cultural side of it, and the art and talent of the matadors (and the super-tight clothes that the matadors wear...).

This is as close as I got to bullfighting-seeing matadors-in-training.

FLAMENCO. If you haven't been exposed to much flamenco before, or if you just think of fans and fancy dresses when you hear the word, you must experience it. It is so much more than the dresses. Which are amazing enough in and of themselves. Flamenco is typically thought of as something started by the gypsies. There are still gypsies alive and well in Spain, dancing and trying to sell you bunches of herbs (real herbs, not the "herbs" you are probably thinking someone would try to sell on the street). But flamenco has moved beyond the gypsies. Now, Sevilla has its own dance/music style, the "Sevillanas." Honestly, I can't tell you the difference. What I can tell you is that every single Sevillana, from birth, can dance the sevillanas/flamenco. This is much more difficult than it sounds, as evidenced by 10 year old students trying to teach it to Sofie and I one time. First of, you have to know how to clap. Not just smash your hands together. It's a special kind of clapping. Then there's the guitarist, the singers, the lyrics, the drum-box thing, the dancing, the dresses...It's amazing. You can hear some middle-eastern influence in the songs. It is not a gentle, soft dance. It is passionate, dramatic, full of strong emotion. Its just astonishing. You can see flamenco just about anywhere in Sevilla. The best is of course if you can see a non-touristy show. Although those are good too. But more likely than not, if you spend much time in bars or restaurants, or just hang out anywhere where the locals do, you'll get a little taste of some impromptu flamenco. Or you can go find a show somewhere and get the whole experience. Or watch the movie "Flamenco, Flamenco" for some of the best of the best flamenco out there. Whatever you do, see it. Not everyone likes it, but you have to experience it.


You can't go to Spain without trying tapas. The tradition of tapas started when bartenders would place a thin slice of jamón over the top (tapa) of a beer to stop sand/flies/whatever from getting into the drink. (Or so claims our tour guide in Madrid. It seems plausible enough). If you go to Granada, you'll get the real tapas experience-order a drink, and get served a random assortment of the small delicacies (for free). But in most other parts of the country, the tradition has evolved. Now you order tapas from a menu and can get pretty much anything, though they are still small portions and super cheap. Tapas range from anything to simple bread and jamón and cheese, to different kinds of potatoes, gazpacho, seafood, small portions of meat or salads, etc. More to come on the food of Sevilla later. But at some point in your stay in Sevilla, you must go to a bar, order a cerveza (Cruzcampo being the standard in this area) and a couple different kinds of tapas (patatas bravas, jamón and tortilla española being my top recommendations).



Sevillanas live in the streets. They weather of the area is so nice that people rarely host get-togethers in their homes. Instead, everyone will meet at a bar or a plaza or just on the street outside their house to chat and gossip and smoke and people-watch. So my best recommendation is to do the same. Just go find a bar to sit at and drink a beer or three, order some tapas, and watch people. Wander around the streets during the day to see all kinds of people doing all kinds of things, and in the evening to see the city come to life. You will find plenty of your own sights and things to look at and explore when you do this. Go off the beaten track, you will be so glad you did.

Sevilla basics

So, because I spent 3+ months in the city, I decided I'd do a little guide on it. So if any of the five of you who read this decide to visit Sevilla, you'll know where to go and what to do...Or if/when I go back, I'll remember what I like and don't like :)

This will be done in parts, otherwise it will be too long. So first up is the general info on the city. Enjoy!

Sevilla is the capitol city of the Andalucían region of Spain (southern part of the country, near Portugal). It is within about an hour from both the sea and the mountains. It is Spain's like fourth-largest city or something like that. Maybe if I'm going to do a guide I should research my statistics a little. Whatever. Its big, but not giant. That's technical, right? Andalucía is known for flamenco, bull fights, pork and its lovely weather. Plus I'm sure a lot of other things.



The city itself is split into a few main areas or neighborhoods. Kind of like Portland, I guess. There is of course the centro (center, if you couldn't figure that out) where a lot of the main sights are; there is Triana-on the "other" side of the river, full of local pride (where you will finds shirts and signs saying, "República independiente de Triana"-Independent republic of Triana); Nervión, La Macarena, Puerta Osario (where I lived), Los Remedios...plus a few more neighborhoods. More on the sights and best points of the neighborhoods/cities to come.

WEATHER
Sevilla summers are hot. No, you don't understand. It's like you just-fell-into-the-fires-of-hell-hot. 115 degrees Fahrenheit on a good day, hot. So hot that the entire city completely shuts down during siesta time (from about 2:00-5:00 or 6:00). If at all possible, avoid the city in the summer, especially July and August. But if not, do NOT leave your house/hostel/hotel/whatever between the hours of 2:00 and 7:00 pm. You will regret it if you do. Unless you are going to Rayas to get some ice cream, then it might be worth it if you get enough ice cream. Except you have to gobble it down super-fast so it doesn't melt.



Winter, on the other hand, is quite nice. Well, compared to Oregon winters anyway. It is cool, but rarely gets super-cold, usually staying above 40 degrees even during the coldest months. And it doesn't rain too much. When it does rain, every single Sevillana gets out their umbrella (which can make it kind of awkward to walk down crowded sidewalks as everyone runs into each other with their pointy umbrellas). While the weather is mild in winter, houses don't usually have much in the area of heat (See above. Not that they are better-prepared for the hot weather, but they don't have much need for heated homes during most of the year). The old buildings have tile floors and let me tell you, they are like ice (which is nice if its August and you can sleep on the cool tile floor...). Little cloth slippers or just socks will not keep your feet warm. Either stay huddled underneath the heated dinner table, or get yourself a good pair of hard-soled slippers (you can get them for about 5 euros if you didn't bring a pair with you.). Your feet will thank you.

A lot of umbrellas.

PEOPLE
The people in Sevilla (and Spain, in general, from my experience) are pretty fantastic...once you get to know them. They aren't always the most outwardly friendly and warm at first. You may have to make the first move and speak first, but they will be nice once you get them to open up. They like their fútbol (soccer), wine, food, language, culture and weather. Sevillanas think they live in the greatest city in Spain, possibly the world. And they have a pretty good argument.

TRANSPORTATION
Sevilla is a relatively good-sized city, but easy to get around in and most of the main tourist sights are pretty close together. There are a few options for finding your way around:
1.) Walk. Bring comfortable walking shoes, because most likely you will be doing a lot of this no matter what. And watch out. You often share the road with cars, so you have to jump out of the way if you see/hear one coming. This was by far my preferred method of getting around in Sevilla (well, pretty much the only method I tried). It is easy to traverse by foot, as long as you don't mind getting lost now and then.

2.) Sevici-the city's bike-rental system. You have to put down a deposit of 150 euros, but you get it back as long as they get the bike back at the end of your stay. You pay as you go-I think you pay by the minute or something, can't quite remember. It's a fantastic and very popular option and the city is relatively bike-friendly. If you consider sharing the tiny, narrow roads with other bikes, cars and pedestrians alike, and riding a bike down uneven cobblestone streets "bike-friendly."


3.) Bus. The bus system is pretty good in Sevilla, but it just won't get you everywhere. The narrow streets were certainly not made for big buses.
4.) Taxis. They're everywhere. If you want to pay a lot, go for it. I have a terrible tendency to get ripped off by taxis, so I have all but sworn them off. But if you have extra money to spend, go for it.
5.) Horse-drawn carriage. If you want to be an even more obvious tourist, go for it (trust me, you're obvious anyway. There's no avoiding it.).


6.) Find a handsome Spanish man to take you around on the back of his moto. Find one for me, too, while you're at it.
7.) Skateboard. Just kidding. Don't you dare. Leave it at home.

To get OUT of Sevilla (if you insist on doing so), there are a few options. Flights within Europe are super cheap on airlines like EasyJet and Vueling (and RyanAir if you are really, really desperate). BUT, only Vueling flies out of Sevilla. Well, so does RyanAir but its just really not the best. The airport in Sevilla is small, so flights out of it are not the cheapest. Its usually cheaper to get to Barcelona or Malaga (by train, bus or even air), then fly from those larger airports.



Depending upon where you are going, the train and bus are also excellent options. Trains leave from the Santa Justa station and are operated by Renfe. The website is sometimes impossible to purchase through, so its often easier to just go to the station to buy your ticket. Renfe's AVE high-speed train will get you to Madrid in 2 and a half hours, much better than the 8 hours it used to take. But its not cheap (I paid 80 euros one way when I first got there). It might actually be cheaper to fly sometimes.

The bus system in Spain is excellent. Sevilla has two main stations, Plaza de Armas and Prado San Sebastian. Your destination will usually determine which station you leave from. Make sure you pay attention when you buy the ticket to which one you'll depart from. This is another time where it may be easier to purchase at the station. But you can go online to check schedules/prices and also buy, from sites like ALSA (super efficient and easy to use) and Damas. I'll put some more information on the best ways to get to certain destinations from Sevilla in a future post. I loved the buses in Spain and pretty much traveled almost exclusively that way.

FASHION
Spanish fashion is something that is kind of hard to figure out. It's a little bit trendy, a little bit grunge, a little bit classy and a little bit funky all at the same time. I don't know how it works. First of all, it doesn't matter what you wear. Even if you shop at the most Spanish of Spanish clothing stores and get your hair cut at a Spanish salon, you will be immediately spotted as a tourist. They have an eye for these things. I don't know if its the way we walk, talk, carry ourselves, etc., but they know right away when you aren't from there. Now, as long as you know that, there is no harm in trying to imitate the fashion of the Sevillanas. Buy yourself some pants that are tight on the calf and baggy in the butt, get some boots or ballet flats (you can never, I repeat never go wrong with ballet flats), and a fun top and you'll be stylin. I don't understand the fit of the pants there (at the time I was there anyway). I tried on multiple pairs of pants and apparently they just don't make normal-fitting ones. And its not just because I don't have a butt, they are made to look that way on purpose. Anyway, clothing is pretty well-priced and cute, so have fun shopping!

SHOPPING
You can buy anything you want or need in Sevilla. Go to Corte Inglés for one-stop shopping. You can quite literally buy everything in this mega-store. Or head to the Plaza de Armas mall for shopping and a movie. Calle Sierpes/Velazquez is the main shopping area in the centro, with stores like H & M, Zara, Mango, etc. Go to Triana for ceramics and amazing locally-made things. Calle Feria for more indie stuff, as well as for the weekly flea market (the "jueves," held each jueves-Thursday). The Feria or Triana food markets for amazingly fresh produce, meat, seafood, etc. Marypaz for shoes (especially if you have big feet...). Near the cathedral for touristy things. Dia or Mas for groceries. Outside of the Museo de Bellas Artes on Sunday mornings for amazing creations from local artists. A "chino" store (mostly owned by immigrants from China who keep the stores open during siesta and sell just about everything) for all kinds of random things that you couldn't find anywhere else. Or for gummies (you can also stop at any street stand for these deliciousnesses). And just wander into anywhere to explore, there's some great stuff!

SMOKING
Everyone smokes in Sevilla. In Spain. In all of Europe. Get used to it. There are some places in Sevilla which are starting to prohibit smoking. But there aren't many of them at this point. Just expect to dine and drink in smoky establishments and to walk in smoke all the time as the people surrounding you are all smoking. To come home with literally everything you own smelling of cigarette smoke (I swear it smells different there-not as bad. But that might just be because you can't get away from it.). If you are a smoker, this will be great for you. If not, well...too bad. Just deal with it.

SCHEDULE
The Spanish day is quite different from the American one. Morning starts out normal enough: get up, get ready, eat breakfast. Then a little later, it's lunchtime. At about 2:00 or 3:00pm. This is the biggest meal of the day, sometimes the only real meal of the day. After lunch, its nap-time: from about 3:00-5:00 or 6:00, the city shuts down for the "siesta." They really believe in this here. Go home, rest, take a nap, whatever, just don't try to go to a store and buy anything-unless its a Chino store. After siesta, the day is yours until about 8:00 or 9:00pm. Then its dinner time, if you're into that kind of thing. Not all Spaniards eat dinner (which makes sense, since lunch is colossal and its really too late to eat by the time the siesta is done), but if you do it will be a relatively light meal, followed by fruit as dessert. Fruit is always dessert. Now, you can relax until bedtime (around midnight), or......

NIGHTLIFE
Spaniards sure know how to party. Even the kids (we're talking toddlers, here) stay out until 1:00am or so in the summer. This is just if they're hanging out in the neighborhood square or a playground. For the older "kids," if you want to go out, don't even think about leaving your house until, at the very earliest, 11pm. At 11:00, you might meet some friends at a bar for a cerveza, or: BOTELLÓN. This is the Spanish version of pre-gaming, and is usually done either at the Torre del Oro (the tower by the river, where every single American tourist goes to botellón, plus a good number of Spaniards), or at Plaza San Salvador (always suuuper-packed at night), or some other place where everyone can just hang out and drink cheaply. Any of these places will be completely full of young people drinking and socializing. Then, at 1:00 or 2:00am, you might head to a discoteca. Don't be scared by that word-it doesn't mean disco-dancing, but a club where you can dance and drink until dawn. Literally. You might head home at about 3:00am, if you're a sissy (like me...), or you might stay out until 5:00 or 6:00am. If you're really hardcore (which is not me, I never even went to a discoteca), you'll stay out until about 7am, grab some (drunken) breakfast and then head home to sleep it off. Wake up at some point the next day and repeat. I am definitely a lightweight when it comes to nightlife, but even I usually didn't get home til 3:00am or so on the few occasions when I did go out (usually to a bar or three with some friends).




Okay, I think that's enough for now :) Next up, what to see and do in Sevilla :)

NO8DO

When I first got to Sevilla, I was kind of disappointed. I had been expecting a place with the charm of Florence but the culture of Spain. That's definitely not what I got. It took me a while, but I really did fall in love with the city. Mostly because of the amazing people I met there. My host family, my professors (not just the one I was in love with, but definitely including him!), my fellow students, my friends Ale and Gerardo, my students and host-teachers, the lady at the cafe I went to for breakfast before every class I taught on Tuesdays and Thursdays, the guy at the fish shop who would say hi every day we walked by...plus the random people we met and just saw.

But besides the people, Sevilla really is pretty great. It is full of beauty with sights like the cathedral and the Alcázar-which I think rivals the Alhambra; the tiny streets that are scary to walk down because you could easily get run over by a car or a bike, but that are so nice and cool because they are so "estrecha" (narrow) and shady; the tapas and tinto de verano; the orange trees lining the streets (with bitter oranges that you can't eat, but that look so tempting); the roasted chestnuts being sold all over; Catholicism; hot, hot, HOT summers; the incense being burned on the streets so it smells amazing and makes you want to buy some; the gypsies trying to scam money out of you; the fans that the women carry in the summer; the fashion; the churros-ooohhh the churros; convents and nun goodies; the park I walked through every day on my way to the University; the horse-drawn carriages (touristy and I felt so bad for the poor horses, but that is for sure a part of Sevilla); walking, walking and more walking (I think a minimum of 5 miles per day); cathedrals everywhere; freezing cold tile floors; FLAMENCO; Sevici (the city's bike-rental system. Even though I never used it, it was pretty fantastic); DOUCHKA; dog poo everywhere, I mean everywhere; the art market outside of the beautiful art museum; Cruzcampo; trying crazy and interesting and good and not-so-good foods; the Andalucían accent...I could go on. For ages. But when I think of Sevilla, these are the sights and images that come to mind.

While Sevilla wasn't my favorite city in Spain as far as sights and ambiance go, it is my favorite place because of the time I spent and the memories I have there. I think this is why I loved Florence so much too. Granted, Florence does have the sights and ambiance that make it such an amazing city. But I have such great memories in both cities that I love them both.

I am a person who falls in love way too easily. Not just with people. Although it did take me a while, I did fall in love with the city of Sevilla. It will forever hold a special place in my heart and it is a place I will go back to again and again if I have the chance.

NO8DO is a symbol you see all over the city. The "8" represents a piece of rope, or "madeja." So to read it, "No madeja do" sounds like "No me ha dejado" which means "It (Sevilla) has not left me." And indeed Sevilla will never leave me. The images, memories, people, language, sights, smells, sounds, tastes...It is all tied around my heart like the piece of rope in the city's motto, keeping me forever in love with the wonderful city I called home for nearly four months.

THIS is Sevilla, to me:







My goal was to narrow it down to 5 photos. This was nearly impossible. And I could easily put up another 1000 photos and still not represent the city fully. But, these are some of the first things that come to mind when I think of Sevilla.

Oh, and this: