The best and the brightest of Sevilla

Sevilla is a fantastic city with a rich history. Granted, I don't really know much about its history...but I know it has a great one. Because of this, there is a lot to see and do in the city. Sadly, in the nearly four months I was there, I missed a lot. Mostly because I was too scared to go out in the heat when I first was there and by the time it cooled down I was too busy. Excuses, excuses-I'll just have to go back.

We'll start with the most typical TOURIST-Y SIGHTS:
The Cathedral. This is an amazingly immense, beautiful, ornate, historical cathedral. I mean, its huge-the third largest cathedral in the WORLD. Sevilla (Spain, in general) has a long history with the Muslim people (the Moors-who occupied the Iberian peninsula for a very long time [800 years, according to Wikipedia]) and this cathedral was built on the site of a Mosque. The bell-tower (the Giralda-Sevilla's most famous and visible symbol) was once a minaret of the mosque. Christopher Columbus is (supposedly) buried inside the Cathedral and you can see his resting place when you go inside. The interior of the cathedral is almost as impressive as its Gothic facade. The ornate-ness of the cathedrals in Spain is just awe-inspiring, and this tops a lot of them. Climb up the Giralda and get a great view of the city/a close-up view of the exterior of the building.



Right across from the cathedral, also in Plaza del Triunfo, is the Alcázar. This is my favorite sight in Sevilla. I think it rivals the Alhambra in Granada, but some people laugh at that idea. It was originally a Royal Palace for the Moors and parts are still used by the Spanish royal family. Muslim architecture/artwork is incredible. The amazing detail that covers the walls and ceilings is just astonishing. Then you go outside and see the garden, and think maybe you could stay inside there forever. You could easily spend a few hours looking around and still not see everything, but definitely allow a good amount of time here. I sadly only went once, but could have easily gone again and again. Make sure you don't miss it.



Besides the "main" cathedral in Sevilla, you should wander into others you pass by. They are all just incredible and ornate and beautiful. As long as the doors are open, you should be able to peek in and look around. Just be polite and considerate, since these are all real live cathedrals where people go to pray and worship.
Also don't miss the bullfighting ring. I did miss it :( I'm not sure how I made it almost four months without going there. Now, I can't support going to see a bullfight. But if you are cold and heartless and don't mind watching animals be tortured and murdered, go for it. Just kidding, kind of. I think it is something that would be worthwhile seeing, since you are in the heart of bullfighting country. But just understand that it is NOT pretty. If you don't want to watch the actual massacre, you can go to the ring when there isn't a fight and tour the grounds, see the museum, etc. I hear it's pretty cool to explore, and definitely a big part of Spanish/Sevillan culture. Sevillanas are on both sides of the bullfighting issue. You'll find some who think it is a beautiful art form, and others who find it cruel and ugly. Find out for yourself if you wish, just don't talk too loudly about your opinions as you'll undoubtedly piss someone off, whichever side you end up on.
The Plaza de España is pretty close to some of the other main sights, and is just beautiful. It was built for the world fair in 1929 and represents each of the areas and many of the main cities in Spain. It is a beautiful building, with a little lake area in the middle which you can go boating in. Each "area" of Spain is represented by a lot of beautiful tile work and benches. You can wander around and admire the artwork, then head to the Plaza de America or Parque María Luisa, both of which are right next to the Plaza. Plaza de America is beautiful and has lots of amazing flowers and landscaping, as well as "pigeon park." Not for those who have a fear of birds. Sevilla's biggest park, that of María Luisa, is breathtaking. It is huge and green and there are water features and benches and people doing Tai Chi and there are birds and fish and its just lovely and peaceful. You forget you are right in the middle of the city and that the park is surrounded by Sevilla's busiest streets.

Parque María Luisa

Plaza Nueva is a square in the middle of the city where you will find the city hall and government buildings. It is a beautiful square where a lot of locals hang out in the evenings, and it is also right at the end of the main shopping streets.
Museo de Bellas Artes is Sevilla's art museum. It has some amazing collections an works by Goya, Velazquez and a lot of other names I don't recognize but still admire. If you are in town on a Sunday, make this the day you go see the museum. After seeing all the beautiful artwork by world-renown artists, you can wander around the local art market right outside the museum doors. I made many trips to the market and bought lots of fun things. The art is amazing (some is weird of course) and it is such a fun place to go on a sunny Sunday.
You can't go to Sevilla without seeing the river running through the city, Río Guadalquivir (don't try pronouncing it), and the Torre del Oro (Golden Tower) on the side of the river. The river is not the most beautiful nor pristine you will ever see, but it is quite lovely and peaceful. It is always full of people (locals and tourists alike) paddleboating or kayaking/rowing, and in the summer swimming. The Torre is where everyone goes to party at night. I feel bad for the poor street cleaners who have to clean up the mess after every "botellón." It's not pretty. But if you go during the day, it is nice and clean and you can sit on the boardwalk area, bike, rollerblade, sit at a restaurant or cafe, etc.


Barrio Santa Cruz is the old Jewish quarter in Sevilla. The streets are tiny (even tinier than in the rest of the city) and wind all over the place. Its impossible not to get lost. But its really cute and there are lots of nice little shops. I didn't actually see that much of this neighborhood, but what I did saw I loved. Definitely worth a visit.
The old tobacco factory has quite a history (think Carmen) and now houses the Universidad de Sevilla. You can go wander through the university and see statues and photos of what it used to be, plus run into plenty of students.




Now, these are all things (minus the Bullfighting Ring) that I saw/visited. And they are all amazing. But there are plenty more to see if you have time/the interest. But I can't really say much about them because I didn't see them :( Even 3+ months isn't enough to see all the sights in Sevilla!

Now, let's move on to the SPANISH-Y THINGS everyone should do while in Spain/Sevilla:

Well, we've already discussed bullfighting. I'll let you make up your own mind about that. Just be warned. I know some people who left in tears after 10 minutes because it was so bloody. But I also know others who loved it and appreciated the cultural side of it, and the art and talent of the matadors (and the super-tight clothes that the matadors wear...).

This is as close as I got to bullfighting-seeing matadors-in-training.

FLAMENCO. If you haven't been exposed to much flamenco before, or if you just think of fans and fancy dresses when you hear the word, you must experience it. It is so much more than the dresses. Which are amazing enough in and of themselves. Flamenco is typically thought of as something started by the gypsies. There are still gypsies alive and well in Spain, dancing and trying to sell you bunches of herbs (real herbs, not the "herbs" you are probably thinking someone would try to sell on the street). But flamenco has moved beyond the gypsies. Now, Sevilla has its own dance/music style, the "Sevillanas." Honestly, I can't tell you the difference. What I can tell you is that every single Sevillana, from birth, can dance the sevillanas/flamenco. This is much more difficult than it sounds, as evidenced by 10 year old students trying to teach it to Sofie and I one time. First of, you have to know how to clap. Not just smash your hands together. It's a special kind of clapping. Then there's the guitarist, the singers, the lyrics, the drum-box thing, the dancing, the dresses...It's amazing. You can hear some middle-eastern influence in the songs. It is not a gentle, soft dance. It is passionate, dramatic, full of strong emotion. Its just astonishing. You can see flamenco just about anywhere in Sevilla. The best is of course if you can see a non-touristy show. Although those are good too. But more likely than not, if you spend much time in bars or restaurants, or just hang out anywhere where the locals do, you'll get a little taste of some impromptu flamenco. Or you can go find a show somewhere and get the whole experience. Or watch the movie "Flamenco, Flamenco" for some of the best of the best flamenco out there. Whatever you do, see it. Not everyone likes it, but you have to experience it.


You can't go to Spain without trying tapas. The tradition of tapas started when bartenders would place a thin slice of jamón over the top (tapa) of a beer to stop sand/flies/whatever from getting into the drink. (Or so claims our tour guide in Madrid. It seems plausible enough). If you go to Granada, you'll get the real tapas experience-order a drink, and get served a random assortment of the small delicacies (for free). But in most other parts of the country, the tradition has evolved. Now you order tapas from a menu and can get pretty much anything, though they are still small portions and super cheap. Tapas range from anything to simple bread and jamón and cheese, to different kinds of potatoes, gazpacho, seafood, small portions of meat or salads, etc. More to come on the food of Sevilla later. But at some point in your stay in Sevilla, you must go to a bar, order a cerveza (Cruzcampo being the standard in this area) and a couple different kinds of tapas (patatas bravas, jamón and tortilla española being my top recommendations).



Sevillanas live in the streets. They weather of the area is so nice that people rarely host get-togethers in their homes. Instead, everyone will meet at a bar or a plaza or just on the street outside their house to chat and gossip and smoke and people-watch. So my best recommendation is to do the same. Just go find a bar to sit at and drink a beer or three, order some tapas, and watch people. Wander around the streets during the day to see all kinds of people doing all kinds of things, and in the evening to see the city come to life. You will find plenty of your own sights and things to look at and explore when you do this. Go off the beaten track, you will be so glad you did.